Friday, November 18, 2016

Christmastide in the Poldark Novels

Christmas is often mentioned in the Poldark novels.  It is December, 1787 and Demelza's first Christmas as Ross's wife and they are at Trenwith.  Demelza was not keen to go but Ross insisted and Demelza was the hit of the party by singing one of her songs that Ross would request frequently throughout their married lives.  In the television series we see it is when Ross falls in love with his wife.  The song of course is I do pluck a fair rose for my love....

Dinner began at five and went on until seven forty. It was a meal worthy of the age, the  house, and the season. Pea soup to begin, followed by a roast swan with sweet sauce, giblets, mutton steaks, a partridge pie, and four snipe. The second course was a plum pudding with brandy sauce, tarts, mince pies, custards, and cakes, all washed down with port wine and claret and Madeira and home-brewed ale.

Winter Pea Soup

1  8 oz package of dried split peas 
(soaked overnight in cold water, then drain)

Add to pot: 8 c. water or ham stock
1 onion diced
3 ribs celery, diced
Simmer until the peas fall apart & soft
Add 1 c. diced ham
salt & pepper to taste
To thicken: make a beurre manie - equal parts flour & butter (kneaded) 
such as 1/4 c. flour & 1/2 stick butter 
Stir in the beurre manie as much as needed to get the consistency needed

This can be left slightly chunky (as long as the peas are thoroughly cooked) or pureed. Keeps in the refrigerator for several days.



In Demelza we learn that the Sawle Church choir had been there singing carols.  One of the songs they sang, "Remember, O Thou Man." This carol dates to the early 1600s and is quite lovely.  I found someone on Youtube singing:
 https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?fr=yhs-adk-adk_sbnt&hsimp=yhs-adk_sbnt&hspart=adk&p=remember+o+thou+man#id=2&vid=86f55761db307cc241ebed668250c5d6&action=click

But even her enjoyment of the two carols was a little spoiled by anxiety as to how she had best behave when they knocked on the door. She sent Jane Gimlett for the cakes she had made that afternoon and took down a couple of bottles of canary wine from Ross's cupboard..... Demelza nervously gave them all a drink and took one herself.....She pressed cakes on them and refilled their glasses, and when they rose to go, she gave them a handful of silver - about nine shillings in all - and they crowded out into the misty moonlit night, flushed and merry and opulent.  There they gathered around the lantern and gave her one more carol for luck before filing off up the valley toward Grambler.

Mini-gingerbread cakes and the mini-bundt type pan I baked them in. Gingerbread is popular at  Christmas and in England and Cornwall, dried fruits were added to many desserts. These cakes have raisins and chopped candied orange peel. She (Demelza) pressed cakes on them... a small cake like this is hand sized and easily carried away and probably eaten before arriving home.



Gingerbread Cake

4 c. flour
2 tsp. ginger
2 tsp. allspice
(mix together in medium size bowl)

In a sauce pan, over low heat until butter melts:
8 oz (2 sticks) butter
1/2 c. molasses
1/2 c. brown sugar

1 cup milk with 1 egg beaten in, and 2 tsp. soda

1 c. raisins soaked in 1/4 c. brandy
1/2 c. chopped candied orange peel

Add hot liquid to flour. Mix well, then add milk with egg, beat well, stir in raisins & brandy & candied peel.  Bake in individual bundt pans or 10 x 12 pan.  Bake at 400 for 10 minutes and then at 300 for approximately 30 minutes.

In Jeremy, the year is 1790, and Ross and Demelza are back at Trenwith.  This time though they both feel reluctant to go, because of Julia's death and how Francis betrayed Ross.  Demelza is surprised to see Elizabeth dressed in a frock of startling crimson velvet with cascades of fine lace. "So she's still interested in Ross, thought Demelza with a sharp twinge, and any gratefulness to me won't make the least difference.  I might have known. Nevertheless she went forward with a smile on her face and was graciously welcomed.

It wasn't the sort of meal they'd had before, either, though it was the best put on for two years.  They had ham and fowls and a leg of mutton, boiled, with caper sauce, and afterwards batter pudding and currant jelly and damson tarts, and black caps in custard, and blancmange.

Blancmange - means white dish. A lovely sweet almond cream dessert



Blancmange

5 oz (1/2 cup rounded) almond paste or filling (the filling still has bits of the brown nut covering)*
2 c. heavy cream
Almond extract
1/2 c. cold water
2 envelopes of unflavored gelatin
1 1/2 c. boiling water
4 oz or 1/2 c. sugar

Raspberry Cream

Put the almost paste in a bowl and mix into the cream with a whisk, making sure it is well blended and creamy.  Add several drops of almond extract to taste.  Stir the gelatin into the cold water and let it soften for several minutes, then whisk in the boiling water.  Add the sugar, stirring until dissolved.  Slowly stir the gelatin into the almond cream.  Lightly oil individual or one large mold (I used a canola oil spray).  Cover and chill in the refrigerator at least four hours. To unmold, place the bottom in warm water for a minute or two (not hot!) and loosen the top edges of the blancmange and it should come right out.

To serve with the Raspberry Cream Sauce.  Purchase a good quality raspberry preserve.  Stir in 1/2 cup to 2 cups cream and mix thoroughly (you can strain seeds if you wish) and pour around the base of the blancmange. Do not omit this sauce as it is amazingly good!  Thanks to the Dining at Monticello cookbook for this recipe).

* I looked for the almond paste in a tube but found an almond paste filling.. the difference is that the paste in the tube is completely creamy colored but the paste filling has bits of the brown coating on the nut....as I was pouring the blancmange into the molds, I could see that there were lots of the brown bits so I strained most of them out... but when I unmolded I was pleasantly surprised to see the bits had fallen to the bottom and accentuated the design of the mold!

My French is bad, here is a help with the proper pronunciation: bluh-MAHNZH


Christmas 1792 find Ross and Demelza with Verity and her husband Andrew in Falmouth.  Fifteen miles away his benefactor was eating an even quieter meal of roast beef and plum pudding in company of her uncle...(Killewarren).  Elizabeth was to be there too with Geoffrey  Charles but begged off at the last minute and spent Christmas with George at Cardew.

Wine Jelly is a popular dessert from the 18th century and was considered a real treat because the process was very laborious.  Think about having to boil calves hooves to make your gelatine?  Luckily we can just buy plain gelatine at the grocery store. The original recipe I used came from the Monticello cookbook and it turned out somewhat okay, but I tweeked it, make it easier and even tastier.  Basically, this is the 18th century version of jello shots!

Port Wine Jelly

3 medium size lemons
1 tsp. cinnamon (1/4 tsp nutmeg optional)
2 cups water
1 cup Port
1 cup cold water
1 cup sugar
2 envelopes granulated gelatin (mixed into the 1 cup cold water)

Using a vegetable peeler, take only the yellow rind off the lemons and place in a sauce pot. Next squeeze the juice while straining the seeds into same pot.  Add the cinnamon (1/4 nutmeg too if you wish) and 2 cups of water.  Bring to a boil over medium heat, reduce to medium low and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, add the Port and sugar, still until dissolved, strain out the lemon peel and bring the liquid to simmer stage making sure the sugar is completely dissolved. Take from heat and add the gelatin which has been added to the cold water.  Pour into small stemmed glasses.  Place in refrigerator about 4 hours to set.


Wine Jelly made with Port - beautiful and tasty!



 Christmas 1793 they were at Nampara (Warleggan). Ross had gone to see Caroline in London to pay her the interest on the loan and to persuade her to see Dwight... Demelza gave a squeak (at the sight of Ross) as she turned. "Why, Ross, I didn't know. I was up at Prudie's.  How did you come?"  He smiled as he kissed her - it was just a formal salute between them. "On four legs and then two. Should I have brought the carol singers?"......... "Have you three extra bedrooms you could get ready for tonight?"  "Three?.....Why, who is coming? What have you arranged?"  "I have brought Caroline back with me Caroline and her maid."  He tells her that Caroline and Dwight have made up.  "Oh, Ross, I'm very glad! More than glad." He tells her how he contrived it.  "What can I give them for supper?"  "Don't worry, I bought a goose in Truro and some ribs of beef and a fillet of veal."


Houses like Trenwith may have had something like this - 18th C Plate warmer.. How inventive? Serving food hot or even warm was probably a huge problem and starting with a warm plate would help immensely.



Perhaps what the common folk did - fry sprats (small fish) in a fireplace.



Now that season two has ended in the UK and soon in the US, I will say I wish there had been more of the ending of Warleggan which ended with Christmas.  For those who have not read the book, I am going to give it to you now (slightly edited):



"Demelza, I wanted to talk to you about her." "No, that I would rather not hear." I think you must. Before I went away I thought not. But there's no other way. "Ross, I've forgotten it. All that time. It will do harm to bring it back now. I would much better prefer that nothing should be said of it." I know but - in fact it can't be forgotten, can it? It is only -overlooked, set aside. Ross said, "I want to tell you Elizabeth means nothing to me anymore." Don't say that, Ross. I shouldn't want for you to say more than you feel-" "But I do feel it-" Yes, at present. But then again sometime, perhaps in a month, perhaps next year.." He said: "Come here, Demelza. Sit down, will you? Listen to what I have to say." He said: "You're so desperately anxious to be fair, not to be self-deceiving, to make the best of what you have... But what you have is all... Will you try to believe that? "Have I call to believe that?" Yes, I wish I could explain about Elizabeth. But in a way I think you must understand. I loved Elizabeth before I met you. It's been a -a constant attachment throughout my life. D'you know how it is when a person has wanted something always and never had it? It's true value to him may be anything or nothing; that doesn't count; what does count is its apparent value, which is always great. What I felt for you has always been assessable, comparable, something human and part of an ordinary life. The other, my feeling for Elizabeth, was not. So what I did-what happened in May, if it could only have happened in a vacuum, without hurt to anyone, I should not have regretted at all. "No?" said Demelza. "No. Because from it I came to recognize things which no doubt I should have had common sense and insight enough to have known without the experience but did not. One is that if you bring an idealized relationship down to the level of an ordinary one, it isn't always the ordinary one that suffers For a time, after that night, things were upside down-for a time nothing came clear. When it did, when it began to, the one sure feeling that stood out was that my true and real love was not for her but for you".
She was very still, eyelids pale, brows straight with a hint of concentration at their inner ends.  He received no hint that she was wrestling with demons, her mind and emotions split: on the one hand struggles against the too easy capitulation ready, so ready, within herself; on the other looking at the love that he now offered with both hands, and finding it, perversely, not enough- not of itself enough as a single isolated factor….
“May I ask a question?” “Of course.”  “How did you come to feel that, Ross? What persuaded you of it?  I mean, the experience itself can hardly have been unpleasant.”  “What experience?” “Of making love to Elizabeth.”  “no… far from it.” He hesitated, a little put out. “But I wasn’t seeking just pleasure.  I was- I suppose in fundamentals I was seeking the equal of what I’d found in you, and it was not there.  For me it was not there.”
“Perhaps it would have come in time.  Perhaps you did not persevere, Ross.”  He glanced at her dryly. “would you have had me do so?”  “Well, I do not know the details of your adventure, but it seems to me you are hardly quite fair on Elizabeth.  At least… I do not very much like her, but she is not a light woman.  You came upon her, I suppose, in surprise.  I should not be astonished if at first she tried to be faithful to her new promise.   I do not know how long you stayed with her or how much you made love to her, but I should think there could be times when she might show to better advantage.”
“Are you defending Elizabeth now”  “Well, yes… or no, I think I am defending women, Truly, Ross, are not all women treated by all men like something inferior, like chattels you take up and put down at will?  I – I’m very happy tonight that you prefer me and I hope you always will.  But I think it is unfair to any woman to judge her, to condemn her, upon a chance encounter, like.  I should not wish to be so judged.  Though indeed I think I have been so judged, quite recently.”
“What do you mean?”  She hesitated, uncertain now of the chasm that gaped before her, then suddenly certain that – though all unplanned – this was the testing jump.
“If we have to talk of this, then there’s something I must tell you.   I have often thought I should, but it did not seem important if you did not care for me any more.  But now if it is true what you say, if you really  mean this…”  “Of course I do.”…..
“And there’s one other thing I want you to know,” he added.  “that is how deeply sorry I am that I ever hurt you in the first place – in May, I mean.  You were so undeserving of any harm.  All these months… I know how you will have felt.  I want you to know that. If you had gone off with McNeil, I should have had only myself to blame.”
She dropped the reins and put up her hands and covered her face with them in a sudden gesture of distress.  She wanted to say something but could not think of nothing at all.

After a minute or two he said: “Does it upset you now to be told that I love you? D’you still prefer McNeil?  Is he still in the district? I’ll go and call on him tomorrow.”  “No Ross, he is gone; and I care nothing, nothing.”
“Then why are you leaving.  Are you not willing to overlook what I said?”  “I can’t” “Why not?”
“Because it is the truth!  That is what I had never realized till you had spoken it.  Oh, I don’t know why.  A sort of blindness.  ‘Tis quite unbearable to think of… Impossible to live with! I don’t know what I shall do.”  He came out and stood beside her.  He looped the reins over a peg. 
“Should we not go inside and talk it over?”  “No! I can’t”  “You cannot forgive me, then.” “I cannot forgive myself.”  “That was a favorite Poldark complaint at one time, but I judged you too wise to catch it.  Look, supposed we go as far as the kitchen.  I don’t see that need compromise either of us too deeply.”
He took the lantern and waited for her.  She hesitated.  He said, “you may leave in five minutes of you wish.”  She followed him into the kitchen.
…. “What is that?”  “Oh… the beer!  I casked it this morning.” …  . “I should have waited till you came home” said Demelza.  They cleared the mess…
He said: “My dear, I bought you something in London.  I had intended giving it to you tomorrow; but in case there is no tomorrow for us, it would be best for you to have it at once.”
She did not turn while he fumbled in his pocket, but then he came up beside her at the window and put a box in her hand. She was surprised to see that his fingers were not as sure of themselves as usual.  She opened the box and saw a gold filigree brooch with a ruby in the centre….. “I bought it in Chick Lane, near Smithfield Bars.  …. She heard him fumbling again, and after a minute he put some tissue paper in her hand. She unwrapped a necklace of garnets.
“Oh, Ross, you’ll break my heart.”  “No, I shall not; not this way surely.  If there-“
“Yes, you will.  You do not know what is going on inside me.”  “Can’t we agree to forget what has passed?  I assure you I should be well pleased to do so.  Is not our fermentation over too?”
“Truly, it isn’t that I –   “I have nothing at all for you.”…. “I don’t think I want a mirror just yet.  Until I can see myself in some less – less disagreeable light.”  “No such ill light exists.  I assure you.”
“Ross, you know that I didn’t need or expect a present like this –   “I know.  But if you suppose or suspect that in buying these things I was hoping to buy myself back into your favour, then you’re right.  I admit it.  It is true, my dear, my very dear, my very dear Demelza.  My fine, my loyal, my very sweet Demelza.”
“Oh no! she said, the tears over brimming her eyes again.  “You cannot say that! You cannot say that now!”  ………….. She touched his hand as she turned away from the window.  “I – I wonder you had money to get home. So generous.  I wish I had something for you.  It is Christmas tomorrow and – “
“It’s nearly twelve,” he said. “Let us sit up awhile and call it Christmas tonight.” (the end of Warleggan)

The expression "no beer to foment" comes up frequently throughout their long marriage.......

I hope you have enjoyed my latest blog and will try the recipes.

Sincerely,
Bonny Wise, I am
Inspired by Poldark


8 comments:

  1. I enjoyed reading this sooo....much!

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  3. Thank you so much. I so enjoyed reading the end of Warleggan and will definitely try the recipes. Thank you for sharing this with us.

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  4. Thank you Bonny! I love hearing what was said in the books!

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  5. Wonderful blog and photos, the recipes are tempting!

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